A Proprietary Red

When I first learned about Marietta Old Vine Red, the lot number was somewhere in the high twenties. This was seven or eight years ago. Today, one can buy and enjoy Marietta Old Vine Red Lot #48.  I lost touch around #33 or #34, but while browsing the racks at Surdyk’s recent wine sale in Minneapolis, I stumbled upon this old friend and decided to reacquaint myself.  It cost me about $10 to see what the folks at this family-owned-and-operated winery has been up to lately, and I think it was worth it.

Marietta Cellars chooses their language carefully when describing their wines.  They repeatedly emphasize the fact that this is a family operation that produces quality wines, for instance.  “Proprietary,” however, is another word that consumers will encounter in almost all of the descriptions of this structured red.  One such explanation reads, “Old Vine Red Lot 48 is a proprietary red wine that is noted for its balance, approachability, and consistency.” I would venture a guess that most casual wine drinkers do not know what this term means when applied to wine and simply move past it. 

Proprietary is a word winemakers use to classify their wine, similar to varietal.  Where varietal denotes those bottles made with a single grape, proprietary wines are exclusive to the winery that produces them.  It is a naming rights thing.  In this case, Old Vine Red is a registered name that Marietta Cellars brands this line of wine so their competitors cannot; any winemaker with access to the necessary ingredients can produce a Merlot, but only Marietta can produce an Old Vine Red.  Each lot of Old Vine Red is a unique blend “made to replicate the field blends of many of the old vineyards in Sonoma, Napa, and Mendocino counties.” Marietta Cellars is located in Sonoma County. 

They released Lot #48 in August 2008 and suggest a consumption period of one to three years.  Lot #48 consists primarily of Zinfandel, but Carignane, Petite Sirah, Syrah, and Cabernet make up the balance of this wine.  And as far as this lot is concerned, they seemed to have gotten it right.  It should be noted that not all lots taste them same, and yes, they sometimes disappoint.

However, I really enjoyed this bottle.  The flavors are a balance of berry fruit, peppery spice, and oaky tones.  I think it is the way the peppery spice spreads across my mouth that makes this wine so interesting to me.  There is a dry quality to the finish that prompts the next drink.  And the berry fruit, which leans to the darker berries, does not overpower my palate with sweetness, but rather, they brighten up all the characters of this delicious red. 

I look forward to enjoying a glass of Old Vine Red Lot #48 again, but I am also excited to see what happens to this unique line of wine as it continues with what I assume will be Lot #49.  For now though, I am content to take pleasure in #48.  Cheers!