A Touch of Spain in the Upper Midwest

By Tamara J. Lesnar
Contributing Writer

In America, when we think of Spanish food we often think of highly seasoned and very spicy foods with lots of peppers. This actually is more applicable to Mexican and Latin American food that borrowed the spiciness from Native American and African influences. Real Spanish food on the other hand has a complexity and subtlety with only occasional hints of the type of peppery spiciness that sometimes is difficult for Midwestern palates.

A classic style of Spanish cuisine is found in tapas. These are typically small servings of various dishes in a form that most Americans would recognize as an appetizer. Tapas have evolved from more than an appetizer to include a wide variety of small culinary gems to be savored along with wine, beer or cocktails.

The term tapas probably originated form an old custom in Spanish taverns about 200 years ago. At that time the barkeeper would put a piece of ham, sausage or other salted meat over the top of an opened bottle of sherry when it was served. This was a treat for the customer and the saltiness would encourage him to order more drink. The Spanish word tapar means to cover. The snack given with the sherry came to be called a tapa or in plural form, tapas.

Since the mid 1980s, tapas bars have made their presence known across the cities of America. Many people make tapas themselves at home for parties. Tapas form a delicious accompaniment for adult beverages and this Mediterranean style of cuisine is a healthy alternative to chips and dip and other artery-hardening snacks commonly found at such gatherings.

Americans have taken to tapas as a form of eating lunch or dinner, but this is not really the role they serve in Spain. The schedule of meals in Spain is what some of us would consider more civilized. Lunch usually does not start until around 2 or 3 PM and the evening meal often occurs around 10 PM. Tapas were intended to help fill the gap in that gustatory schedule.

The type of foods used in tapas are as varied as the chef’s imagination. They should be quickly prepared, not too filling, and easy to eat, preferably not requiring silverware.

For many years, tapas consisted mainly of ham or other similar smoked or salted meat, salami, or chorizo.

The Spanish version of chorizo is different from the Mexican version, with which Americans might be more familiar. One of main differences is that the Mexican version features hot chili peppers not usually found in the Spanish. Nowadays you might find fish and seafood, various types of cheeses, olives, vegetables prepared in unusual ways and even dessert tapas.

My family and I recently visited Solera, an excellent tapas bar in Minneapolis, located on Hennepin Ave. in the theater district. It is, in fact, right next door to the Orpheum, where we had tickets to see the musical “Wicked.” We had great seats, in the center and close to the front, I highly recommend seeing this play if you can get tickets. We informed our server of our time constraints and were given outstanding and prompt service.

Seated at the bar, we were able to watch the chefs at work. We requested our food in a sort of culinary stream of consciousness that ended up being a very satisfying exploration of the menu. There are seasonal changes, but our selections can give you an idea of the types of things to expect.

Our party was able to get a wide variety of dishes including scallops “a la plancha” with serrano ham and saffron. The scallops were cooked just right, not overcooked and rubbery and not too raw. The serrano ham is somewhat comparable to prosciutto. The seasoning and flavors were excellent and well balanced to the mild notes of the scallops.

Cumin-roasted pumpkin seeds comprised a highly addictive accompaniment throughout our evening, and even found their way home with us for some late night snacking.

Another treat was roasted vegetables with radicchio and blue cheese. The vegetables were still a little crisp because of the rapid preparation technique and their flavor was not overpowered by the modicum of blue cheese in the dish.

Veal meatballs in honey glaze provided a sweet change of pace. Fried calamari with “hot” peppers and tomato aioli was the only dish that might be considered spicy.

The ambiance was relaxed and amiable, like a nice party to which we found ourselves suddenly invited. The service was attentive but not overbearing. The cost was typical of most upper-end restaurants in the area, but was definitely appropriate for the amount and quality of the food. The tab for all of our food and drinks for our party of three was under $100.

While there is no tapas bar in F-M currently, it is a cuisine style that you can try at home relatively easily. Common ingredients include seafood such as scallops, shrimp or squid pieces that can be rapidly cooked, manchego cheese (sheep’s milk cheese), short-grain rice, pimento (roasted red peppers), and Kosher salt.

A commonly used sauce for tapas is aioli, which is a type of mayonnaise. It is made with garlic, salt, lemon juice and egg made into a paste and then gradually mixed with olive oil in a food processor. Try making some things up yourself and have fun with it. Remember, it is supposed to be quick and easy to make so don’t work too hard at it.

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If You Go

What: Solera
Where: 900 Hennepin Ave, Minneapolis
When: M-Th, Su 5pm-12am; Fr, Sa 5pm-2am
Info: 612.338.0062