Aperitifs are back in style

By Abel Busoni
Contributing Writer

As part of an ongoing series on righteous beverages for meals, we’re beginning at the beginning. How do you start the meal? Years ago, you would kick things off with an aperitif, a concept which is coming back in style.

An aperitif is a drink, bitter or dry and sometimes sweet, that you have before you start the meal. Crisp and clean. Being dry and not too sweet, the aperitif increases your appetite. If it is a cocktail, it’s generally strong and not too long. The aperitif has three functions: it prepares the palette, whets the appetite, and generally is an alcoholic beverage served before the food (sometimes with a small snack), it provides an extra coating of social lubrication and keeps people’s appetites at bay.

As for snacks, we’re not talking about starters, but rather something small and neat, like a dish of green olives, almonds or corn nuts. Something that has a singular flavor, isn’t too sweet, and more or less goes with your aperitifs.

Sometimes we dive bomb into meals, ears pinned back and ready to fight our way out of a basket of ribs, engage in mortal combat with massive coleslaw, have great moral struggles against mounds of meat … which is great. But the aperitif changes all that. The pace changes as anticipation becomes an official part of the meal. If there is a problem with the aperitif, it is that it raises expectations as well as appetites … so get ready.

Generally speaking, aperitifs include the following drink categories.
• Vermouth
• Cocktails: bitter, dry, strong and not too long
• Champagne, cava, or other sparkling wines
• Cocktails made with champagne etc.

We offer a few specific recipes, but there are many others to be made. Sadly, there are very few non-alcoholic options available for classic “aperitifs,” but fresh juices mixed with a non-alcoholic sparkling wine might be a good bet (so long as it’s dry).

Vermouth

I suspect that many of us have had a bad experience with vermouth, but it may very well be worth another shot. Martini Bianco or Rosso is a good way to start.

Technically, it’s a “fortified wine.” That means it’s a wine with spirits and in this case, a secret recipe of herbs (insert intrigue).

We use it in a variety of cocktails, but seldom by itself. Taken alone, it is the classic aperitif, and you don’t have to prepare anything … which is great.

Drink it an hour or two before the meal is served, and if you’re cooking, try drinking it instead of wine while you cook for some variety. On a mild, sunny day, this aperitif will be perfect outside on a deck.

Recipe for vermouth
• Nearly any kind of 8 ounce glass will do
• Ice cubes
• Vermouth, never all the way full.
• Lemon wedge (optional)
• Olive (optional)
• And the magic trick …sparkling water or club soda (optional)

The sparkling water or club soda is served on the side and goes well with the vermouth because it dilutes the sweetness. Some people like it, some people don’t. Top it up and give it a try.

Negroni

The Negroni is a classic, bitter gin cocktail that epitomizes the concept of aperitif. It features Campari, which is really, really bitter. Usually, we underestimate the nastiness of Campari and put too much in, with the result that the Negroni has something of a bad reputation … yet people who like it will swear by it, and it hasn’t disappeared from drink menus after nearly 100 years of appetite alchemy. The deep red color of the drink is delicious, making an excellent accessory for the dashing man or the daring maiden.

Recipe for Negroni
A tumbler glass
Ice cubes
1 ½ ounces gin
3/4 ounces campari
3/4 ounces red vermouth
Fat orange wedge

Put the ice cubes in the glass. Pour in the gin, and then pour in the campari and then the vermouth. Stir it just a bit. Variations: mix one part of each liquor for more bitters or omit the gin and use sparkling water or club soda to make an Americano.

Manhattan

If I had to choose my last meal, I would get it with an aperitif. That aperitif would be the Manhattan. It combines vermouth, angostura bitters and whiskey (rye, bourbon, or Canadian).

Recipe for Manhattan

Martini glass
2 ounces rye whisky
1 ounce Italian vermouth
2 dashes Angostura bitters
Maraschino cherry

Pour everything into a mixing glass or pitcher full of ice cubes. Stir well. Strain into a martini or cocktail glass. Drop in the cherry and eat one for yourself.

Champagne

Champagne, cava or other similar sparkling wines actually make great aperitifs served alone, and are unique in that you can end meals with them too. We present here the Classic Champagne Cocktail, which should be made with a dry sparkling wine.

Champagne flute (some cocktail glasses would work too)
3 oz Champagne
1/3 oz cognac or brandy (optional)
2 dashes Angostura bitters
Lemon
Orange
Sugar cube

Fill the glass with champagne. Soak the sugar cube with the bitters and drop it in. Splash on the cognac. Add a lemon twist or garnish it all with an orange slice. Substitute Campari for the cognac to make a Goodnight Kiss.

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