Good Food, Historic Building, Overlooks the Red

I have to admit that I have not written a lot about the other side of the river, that would be Moorhead. Besides all the great restaurants that already are in Moorhead, there are a number of very wonderful restaurants that have emerged in the last year.

One that has really gotten my attention is Usher’s. You may have known it as the Broken Axe, or maybe The Bear. It has become a favorite place to hang and eat some very good food. I have eaten there with friends and my husband and we have all had nothing but good things to say about it.

I really was happy to see that each time I have gone it was busy. In fact, it has been so busy that I have yet to get into the back part to eat. Nice problem for them to have.

One of the things I see that really helps make this place work is the staff. They all seem to really enjoy what they are doing. Aaron Duma has been there the longest, I believe. He was there during the Broken Axe days and is the Pub manager and events coordinator.

John Pfeifer, the executive chef , in my mind, is one of those chefs that you really need to watch. He is not afraid to go in different directions with the food, and I love that.

Daniel Heintz and I go back to working together in Fargo. He is just the best at this job, maitre de. It is an art, keeping people calm waiting to get to their table or waiting for their food.

Together the three of them make the pulse of the restaurant continue to beat. I spoke with all three of them and here is what they had to say.

What makes Ushers a place people should come to eat? You cannot say good food, sorry.

We’re a locally owned independent business with a penchant for good food and strong drink. Plus our dining room overlooks the Red and is made out of glass.

Who comes up with the menu, John?

I do, along with the kitchen staff. And I’m always open to suggestions from Daniel and Aaron.

John, can you tell me how the name, Ushers, reflects in the food served?

We just want to provide the most accommodating meals for a very diverse customer base, and make sure that while our guests are there, that they’re treated like our own personal friends.

What exactly is the Hunt Club, and can it be reserved for parties?

Hunt Club is our meeting and banquet room downstairs. It’s a cozy room complete with fireplace and leather furniture, and is perfect for parties like groom’s dinners, business lunches, anything really.

How often is the menu changed?

We change the menu seasonally, but more realistically, whenever we feel like it. We’ve just started doing brunch on Saturday mornings from 11 until 2, and as long as it remains well received, we’ll keep doing it. Any time inspiration hits, it’s reflected in the menu.

What about Ushers excites you?

Working for a private company is great because we have the freedom to change at the drop of a dime. There’s lots of room to be creative and really make the guests’ experience a memorable one, because it’s such a break from the old restaurant routine in the area.

What on the menu would you recommend right away to someone that has never eaten there?

Our Tuna Napoleon is stunning, and it’s available in both the pub and the dining room. The Duma burger is a house favorite, simply because it’s stuffed with garlic and served with Sriracha [hot sauce named after the Thai seaport]. And the pan-fried walleye is better than one particular restaurant manager’s mom’s old recipe—just don’t tell her that.

Location, location is very important I think you have got that. Why close the back once a week? It is such a beautiful place to sit and eat.

Simply enough, labor cost. Not to talk nuts and bolts, but Monday nights are hit or miss. Minnesota’s minimum wage is much higher than Fargo’s and it can be difficult to justify staying open to no business. Because we’re an independent business, we need to operate a little more tactically soundly than lots of our competition.

Are the menus different in Ushers House and Monk’s Pub?

Yes, we offer the dining room menu and a pub menu. Getting back to being able to change as we see fit, though, after requests for walleye and steak choices in the pub, we started a new extended pub menu. If people are asking for something, we’ll give it to them. Within reason, anyway…

Am I correct that you can dress casual and up to eat in any area of the restaurant?

If you and yours want to get done up and come out dressed to kill, then by all means, please do. But we’re not going to look at anyone any differently if they don’t. Minnesota state law requires that everyone in public areas remain clothed, we don’t care how you do it though.

Why do you think the owners decided to take a chance with this restaurant?

The building deserves to be treated like the historical landmark it is, and the Savageaus knew it. What better way to celebrate a local landmark than to offer it back to the public in a way that brings people together over food and drink?

Aaron, tell me something about the bar that you would want people to know.

Beer! One of the best beer lists in town. It’s always growing and changing, featuring micro brews and unique imported beers from around the world. You can get anything from Tuna Napoleon to fish and chips, and the sweet potato fries are to die for.
What does your menu say to the reader?

Even in our baskets, we up the ante by offering unique sauces and are always forcing the menu to evolve to better accommodate the guests we serve. The menu says “Hey! You can’t get this anywhere else in town!”

Aaron , Daniel, John could you tell me what makes you all work so well together?

We’re friends outside of work, and there’s a lot of respect between the three of us. Plus Aaron is really cute.

Here is a great FYI, too. Ushers will feature a New Belgium Brewery’s Five Course Pairing Dinner, coming up next Thursday, December 5. It begins at 7 PM and is $55/head, all-inclusive.  Sounds good to me.

Have a great week, eat well and be safe.