…Or What’s Inside This Box

There is probably nothing more picked on than boxed wine. It is the butt of the joke in many circles as it has come to represent the epitome of cheap wine, one step up from Mad Dog 20/20. So, how do I even begin writing about boxed wine? It is hard enough to purchase (wearing a fake mustache and sunglasses), let alone to admit it doesn’t really taste that bad—in some cases, er, boxes. Yes, I have found a box from which I can drink (occasionally).

Boxed wine has a stigma, no doubt. Most of it is really not that good, and I am not just being an elitist. I wouldn’t doubt that some people might dismiss this article on the subject alone. However, with improvements in packaging coupled with an urge to make a better product, some brands of boxed wine are trying to get us to rethink our prejudices. And it might be working.

Friends have strongly recommended two brands in particular, Bota Box and Black Box. And though I have only tried Bota Box, it is clear that these companies are moving forward on the issue. They have produced a wine that rivals the best of the lower-end market, the glass bottle market, that is. There are a lot of cheap bottles of wine available today that I would certainly pass over for some of the higher-end boxes. And, yes, when buying wine by the box, you will benefit from that additional five dollars. So lets look at this from an economical standpoint a bit.

Bota Box sells their wines in three-liter boxes for around $17. Put in other terms, you will get the equivalent of four regular bottles of wine for a little more than four bucks a bottle. Compared to many of the under-five bottles, Bota Box easily comes out ahead. However, what is even more interesting is that many of their wines also surpass several notable eight-dollar bottles, like Ravenswood or Yellowtail.

One of the things that first appealed to me when introduced to Bota Box was their range of available varieties. Most often, when I think of boxed wine, I think of White Zinfandel or bad, cold Merlot. But the first two reds I came across were Old Vine Zinfandel and Shiraz, surely varietals that are worth a try.

But this brings to question another big concern relating to boxed wines, and that is freshness and the refrigerator. This is not a big deal if you are drinking whites like Pinot Grigio or Chardonnay. Hot summer day, cold Chardonnay—go nuts, but what about anything red? I can’t stand cold red wine, and I am not that patient to let each glass warm up (and I am not going to warm, cool, warm, cool my box of wine over time).

Bota Box claims that their wine, with their trademarked FlexTap, will stay fresh for up to a month, even on the countertop. And though I did notice a slight decrease in body quality over time, the Old Vine Zin was still very drinkable after a couple of weeks. I was impressed and still contend that two-week old Bota Box still beats Yellowtail.

So it might not appear to be the classiest of wines, and you will not have an opportunity to pull and sniff the cork or partake in the traditional unveiling of a nice bottle. However, if what you are looking for is a bulk wine to have around the house or at the lake (no glass allowed), maybe it’s time to tap a box (just to try it). Franzia will always be Franzia, and many other brands are just as bad, but just because it is in a box doesn’t necessarily mean its ready to be buried. After all, it is only packaging, right? But, perhaps, maybe next week I should review a bottle of Cline’s Small Berry Mourvèdre, just for good measure… Cheers!