Oregon Style

By Nikki Berglund
Staff Writer

When we were at the lakes this Memorial Day weekend with my in laws, my wine-savvy mother-in-law pulled out a great bottle of Pinot Gris from A to Z Wineworks of Oregon. As we all sat around enjoying the crisp refreshing bottle on a hot spring afternoon, we couldn’t help but be reminded of just how great Oregon wines can be. Rather than being mass produced and over harvested, they have a style all their own. With a state full of winemakers known for being a bunch of renegades and dropouts, some of the best Pinot Noirs and Pinot Grises are currently coming from this state. Be prepared though, the lower yields and high demand that often come with the finicky Pinot Noir grape means you’ll be paying more.

It was the 1960s when the Oregon wine renaissance really began. Although the first grapes planted were Riesling, it was the introduction of the Pinot Noir grape in the 1970s that really put Oregon on the map. Due to the tricky and troublesome growing conditions in many parts of Oregon, the first winemakers were strongly discouraged from planting vitis vinifera, the most famous and widely used species of grapevines. Oregon wine laws are strict; requiring that they must use 90% of the stated varietal, meaning a bottle of Pinot Noir in Oregon is truly just a Pinot Noir. The rest of the country only requires that 75% of the wine must come from the stated grape. The one exception to this rule is Cabernet Sauvignon, since much of the greatness of this wine comes from blending it with other varietals.

Two-thirds of the Oregon vineyards are planted in the Willamette (will-AM-et) Valley, with 56% of the yields being Pinot Noir. The second most widely planted grape is Pinot Gris, which also has a much higher yield than its more persnickety cousin Pinot Noir. The growing season can be compared to that of France’s Burgundy region, which is perfect for both Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.

Since the year 2004 when the movie Sideways came out, sales of Pinot Noir have skyrocketed. The constant praise by one of the movie’s main characters, played by Thomas Haden Church, about his love of the grape was enough to grow the United States Pinot Noir business by as much as 16%. Although the movie took place in California, Oregon fared quite well in the deal as well. Due to the lower yields of the delicate Pinot Noir grape, the wine shelves quickly emptied and the prices went through the roof. Over the years the craze has quieted somewhat but Pinot Noirs are still as popular, and expensive as ever.

Unlike the mass-produced and often personality-lacking versions coming out of California these days, Oregon has stayed relatively true to its grape. Even though the climate can be something of a detriment to Pinot Noir production in this state, it is also what makes these wines so unique. The delicate nature of the grape reflects with true honesty the differences in sites and climatic conditions. As one of the great red grapes of Burgundy wines, Pinot Noir has been a part of some of the finest and most sought-after wines in the world. Oregon is the only major wine region outside of Burgundy that specializes in this fragile grape variety.

When choosing an Oregon wine, your best bets will most likely come from the Willamette Valley. Again, A to Z Wineworks produces a winner. This company sources its fruit, which means it buys it from many wineries… or in their words, everyone from “A to Z.” Their goal is to be the “essence of Oregon” rather than reflect one particular vineyard. With a promise of “quality Pinot Noirs under $20,” the price of this wine is refreshing. Willamette Valley Pinot Noir is a little spendier at around $25, but is still not too expensive for a great Pinot Noir.

Pinot Gris, also known as Pinot Grigio, is the ancestral sister of Pinot Noir. This “grey pinot” grape has the same DNA profile as Pinot Noir, yet somewhere long ago a genetic mutation turned the grape a different color. The cooler climate of Oregon is an ideal growing climate for this grape.
Oregon Pinot Gris is known for its crisp and somewhat creamy nature. The idea of many if not most great Pinot winemakers in Oregon is minimal tampering so the flavors are not muddy. Pinot Gris is one of the two greatest white wines produced in the United States to pair with food, the other being Sauvignon Blanc. The A to Z Pinot Gris we had last weekend is a glowing example of one of these wines. Crisp and refreshing, with the perfect amount of tannins to pair with any number of foods, this little number can be yours for right around $13.00. Sokol Blosser, a winery I have already raved about in a previous article, also makes an excellent Pinot Gris, a little higher-priced at about $20 bucks.

When it comes to being able to pair wines with food, both of these grapes leave a lot of room for creativity. Pinot Noir is one of the few red wines that can pair with not only red meat, but also with fish and poultry. There are certain food and wine pairings that are said to be the best and grilled salmon and Oregon Pinot Noir is considered one such match made in heaven. The next time you need a great red or white wine to go with your summer meal- give an Oregon Pinot a try and I promise you will not be disappointed!

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