Port Drinking Made Easy—Sort Of?!

When I was growing up, I remember my father coming home after a long day at work, and sitting down with his newspaper and a snifter glass of Port. I always thought it looked really classy and sophisticated, until I went in for a whiff only to have my nose burn from the unexpected whiff of alcohol not usually associated with wine. As an adult, I am much more appreciative of strong alcohol aromas (okay, strong alcohol in general) and with winter bearing down upon us, now seems like a great time to explore (or maybe just scratch the surface of) the wonderful and bewildering world of Port.
Port is a type of dessert wine fortified with alcohol, producing a sweet wine with a high level of alcohol (often 20% or so). To take it a step further without getting too scientific and confusing (that comes later in the article), the wine is produced by adding a neutral grape spirit, brandy, during the fermentation process. This addition actually stops the process, leaving the residual natural sugar and boosting the alcohol level. The general proportions are one part brandy to four parts wine. The principal grapes used in the making of Port are local and unknown outside of Portugal.
Port was invented by the British, who after warring with the French, needed a new wine supplier. Portugal had a plethora, but the dilemma was how to ship it. In order to make the wine stable enough for the overseas journey, a small amount of alcohol was added to the finished wine. The English are known to have established the first Port house, Warre’s in 1670.
Like Champagne (from France) and Chianti (from Italy), true Port comes from Portugal. Other wine making regions such as Australia are experimenting, oftentimes quite successfully, with Port, but the real stuff is truly the best stuff. The Douro Valley, in Northern Portugal is the region of origin, but it is actually named after the harbor, Oporto from which it is shipped. This wine-growing region is one of the wildest and most difficult in the world, which is part of what makes these wines so special. The steep and rugged terrain is dangerous, the soil composed of schist and granite is rocky and the long hot summers are unforgiving, which makes the production of Port truly a labor of love.
When it comes to talking about the different categories and styles of Port, things start to get a little more complex. I will try to give a condensed version along with examples that can be found in Fargo. For some of the spendier Ports, it may be necessary to ask your favorite retail wine shop to special order you a bottle from the distributor.
There are two major categories from which all Ports come from: those aged in wood (or more modernly in a tank), and those aged in the bottle. Wood-aged Ports are generally ready to drink right after they are bottled and shipped. They are far more common and easier to acquire. These wines are ideal for restaurants due to the fact that the shelf life (once opened) is greater and they do not require decanting (don’t need to be aerated and have no sediment).
Bottle-aged Ports, on the other hand, are a little more finicky but well worth the pain in the butt. Although they start out in a barrel, they are aged in the bottle, sometimes for many years. During this aging process they develop sediment which means they will need to be decanted so as to avoid a big mouthful of yuckiness. Once opened, they should be drunk rather sooner than later, as the older they get, the more delicate and fussy they become. The most famous and coveted of these are the Vintage Ports.
Within these two categories there are many different styles. The designations come from variables such as the base wine used, how long the wine is aged in wood before bottling (2-40+years), and whether the wine is from a single year or blended from wines of several years.
Two of the most common and easy-to-find styles are Ruby and Tawny Port. Ruby Port is a young, non vintage (no designated year) wine which is fruity, simple, and inexpensive. This is a great beginner’s Port since it is straightforward and can usually be found for around $10-$12 per bottle. A few brands available in most Port sections include Fairbanks, Christian Brothers, and Fonseca.
Tawny Ports, considered the most versatile, are found in two styles, young and aged. Young Tawnys are uncomplicated and a little weaker in flavor than the aged Tawnys and are available in the same brands and price range as Ruby Ports. Aged Tawnys are a blend of several vintages left in the barrel until they develop a sort of dark honey or “tawny” color. They are made from grapes that are considered to be of the highest quality. Aromas and flavors that come to mind include raisins, nuts, and vanilla followed by a mellow and silky mouth feel.
Tawnys are designated on the label as 10- 20-30-40+- year-old wines. 10-20 years are often considered the best value. You can find some pretty incredible Ports of this style. Cockburn’s (pronounced COH-burn) and Dow’s aged Tawnys are available around town. These are not inexpensive however, at around $40-45 for a 20year and going up in price by year from there.
Vintage Character Ports are another style, not to be confused (easier said than done!) with Vintage Ports. This type of Port is relatively easy to find due to its popularity. These are of high quality and bold in flavor and are sometimes less confusingly referred to as Super Premium Ruby Ports. A couple of popular examples include Graham’s Six Grapes and Cockburn’s Special Reserve, affordable and delicious options with most hovering around the $20 price range.
Other styles include: White Ports, Late Bottle Vintage (LBVs), Single Quinta Vintage, and so on.
Vintage Port is perhaps the rarest and most sought-after wine in the world. It is only produced in the best years and is usually not ready to drink for about 20 years after bottling. Check with your retailer to find out which vintages can be obtained currently in the area but be prepared to pay!
Ports are considered dessert wines due to their sweetness. They should be served slightly chilled. They are an excellent accompaniment to cheese and dessert courses, or can replace dessert all together.

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