Run, Don’t Walk

By Alice Christianson
Staff Writer

Granita is a dessert that is semi-frozen, with a crystalline texture, usually made from fruit, sugar, juices or water, and flavorings. I’ve never considered a granita made from cucumbers, nor imagined that it would taste so delightful. But that was dessert and I am getting ahead of myself.

Readers of my column may recall that I have previously praised the Green Market restaurant for its delicious, unique and changing menu, clearly marked menu selections for vegans (V+) and vegetarians (V), sophisticated ambiance, and friendly staff.

The online menu for September 17 lured me in. My husband and I shared several selections so that we could try every vegan option.

The homemade bread plate with Spanish olive oil dip included their wonderful Greek olive bread, foccacia, and fennel bread.

The pickle plate is always fun because the items change. This time, the plate included flavored roasted almonds, a bowl of rosemary-marinated olives, a plate of pickled red pepper rounds and cucumber spears, and a plate of pickled green pepper slices, whole garlic and coarsely chopped onion. Every item was excellent.

By this time, I was glad that we had decided to split the squash and coconut curry soup; we each received a small cup. The soup was superb.

The next course was a shared salad of organic greens with very thinly sliced apple; cucumber with cider vinaigrette, very flavorful; and a plate of miso-glazed, roasted eggplant. The soft texture and savory taste of the eggplant was remarkable.

Dessert was next, the cucumber granita with berries. I was surprised by the artistic presentation of the soft green granita crystals and the accompanying thinly sliced strawberries, a sprinkling of lavender, and shavings of what I presumed was mint. The granita was superb, with a subtle sweetness and the slight flavor of anise, a perfect ending to a lovely meal.

There is no guarantee that the granita will stay on the menu for very long, so I suggest you run, don’t walk, to the Green Market Kitchen as soon as you can.

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If You Go

What: Green Market Kitchen
Where: 69 Fourth Street N
When: Tu-F 3-9; Sa 12-9
Info: 701.241.6000