The Many Faces of Sauvignon Blanc

By Nikki Berglund
Staff Writer

When I first began my long strange trip down the path of wine exploration, I was always a little turned off by white wines. This was partially due to the fact that the most popular white wine available, Chardonnay, has just never really been my thing. That heavy, buttery, oaky sort of taste is something that doesn’t quite work for me when I am in the mood for something light and refreshing. I didn’t really even attempt to like white wines for a long time.

Then I discovered Sauvignon Blanc, a white grape that is on the exact opposite end of the white wine spectrum, and one I quite enjoy. Common words to describe this grape include crisp, dry, and acidic, with fresh-cut grass, green tea, and grapefruit used as comparisons. Sauvignon Blancs are made all over the world with some of the most notable ones coming from France, where the grape originated, but also out of California and New Zealand. With all of the different locales come a variety of flavor profiles, largely due to the differences in climates and growing conditions. Summer is a perfect time to experiment with these light and refreshing wines, so here are just a few to get you started.

The birthplace of Sauvignon Blanc is France, the name originating from the French word “sauvage,” meaning “wild,” in reference to the way the roots grow. Sauvignon Blanc is still considered a major grape of France, since it is typically a dominant grape of White Bordeaux, along with being the primary grape in both Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume of the East Loire Valley. The grape is also a major component of the famous dessert wines of Sauternes and Barsac.

The wines of both Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume are considered the world’s models for crisp, dry white wines, and are known to be some of the best white wine matches for food. Some descriptors for this style of Sauvignon Blanc include gunflint, herbal, smoky, and even “racy” in reference to the unique style. Pouilly- Fumes are considered a little smokier (fume= smoke in French) in nature, although most people say that only a local wine expert would be able to tell the two apart. The Michel Picard Sancerre is a delicious example of this style without being outrageously expensive, at around $21-$23 a bottle.

California has been growing Sauvignon Blanc since the 1880s, and unlike France, the grape name is displayed on the label. Sometimes you can find it under the name Fume Blanc as well, but unlike the similar French name, there doesn’t necessarily have to be a smoky component. This alternate name was first used by Robert Mondavi in 1968, and was meant as more of a marketing tool than an actual description of what’s in the bottle.
In California, the winemakers often choose to downplay the herbal characteristics, choosing instead to bring out the more melon-and-citrus essence of the wines, and in the meantime creating a different style than the French. It is also common to blend the Sauvignon Blanc with Semillon, the two basic ingredients of White Bordeaux. One popular wine that does just that is Sterling Sauvignon Blanc out of Napa Valley. If you want a nice classy wine with name recognition for your next party, look no further that this one. At around $14-$15, it’s a little less expensive than its Cabernet counterpart, but still tastes expensive and delicious, and your guests will be impressed.

These days, some of the greatest Sauvignon Blancs are coming out of New Zealand, where they were first introduced in the1970s and have played a crucial role in the development of the New Zealand wine industry ever since. By the early 1990s, this varietal had firmly established itself as the New Zealand flagship wine. About two thirds of the Sauvignon Blanc grown comes from the cool-climate area of Marlborough. This is where it originally became especially popular to put a screw cap on Sauvignon Blancs, a practice that is now common in other parts of the world as well.

One of the big guns around here is the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc. With 91 points and a spot on the Top 100 List from the Wine Spectator for its 2008 vintage, the world is definitely taking notice of this wine, which retails for right around $20 a bottle.

Just because there are certain places that are better known for their Sauvignon Blancs doesn’t meant that others aren’t putting in their two cents. From Washington State comes an excellent selection from Chateau St Michelle’s single-vineyard series, the Horse Heaven Hills Sauvignon Blanc. The classic Washington-style varietal is such great value wine, at $13- $15 per bottle, with a 90 point rating (Wine Spectator) for the last vintage.
From Chile comes a great little SB that I have mentioned in past articles, the Montes Classic Sauvignon Blanc—a steal at $10 a bottle. This is a staple of my summer wine drinking and one you shouldn’t pass by.

The great thing about Sauvignon Blancs is their ability to pair well with all kinds of foods. Everything from appetizers to cheese courses (Chevre is a big winner!) to chicken to fish. They also hold the distinction of being one of the few wines that can successfully be matched with sushi.

If you have been scared by white wines in the past, or if your only experience is with Chardonnay, go for one that is the polar opposite. You might find that you are a white wine drinker after all, which makes it a hell of a lot easier when you go to a party or are dying of heat in the summer and your favorite red wine just won’t cut it!

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