Those Glorious Bubbles: Sparkling Wine

“Champagne for breakfast and a Sherman in my hand.”  -Peter Frampton
For the longest time I was not a fan of sparkling wine.  Sure I would indulge in the occasional glass for special occasions or at weddings.  I know there was a time or two that I forked out a whole $8.00 for a 750ML bottle of Verdi Spumante (actually made from malt liquor!) at the old Ralph’s Corner on New Year’s Eve, paying for it with a mind-blowing headache in the morning.  My early experiences were chock full of cheap bottles of sweet sparkling wine, causing me to wonder what all the fuss was about. Well, a few years later, and with some serious wine sampling under my belt,  I am now in love with not only Champagne, but also with all of its cousins and offspring from around the world.
It is important to specify that Champagne can technically only come from the Champagne region in Northern France and the French take this VERY seriously.  In 2008, a shipment of 270 cases of Andre (a cheap California sparkling wine) on its way to Nigeria was destroyed by Belgium customs because it was labeled, “Andre Champagne.”  Nowadays the word Champagne can be placed on a label, as long as the place where it originates is also listed, for example: “Andre California Champagne”.  Most quality producers of sparkling wines outside of France usually opt not to use the word at all anymore, finding it too generic-sounding and often implying a wine of lower quality.

The French perfected and set the standard for how sparkling wines are made today. The traditional method, as it is called by the French, was not created, but rather perfected by a Benedictine monk named Dom Perignon around 1690.  This is the method by which many sparkling wines are made and is usually designated by “Method Champenoise” on the label. This method takes longer than the Charmat or bulk method which uses a tank for its second fermentation instead of individual bottles. 

I recently attended an informative and delicious champagne tasting at The Silver Moon for Piper Heidsiek.  Not only were the food pairings right on target, but it was great to get to sample not just one premium Champagne, but four different types ranging in price from $35 to $55 retail. 

I was in heaven.  The tasting was magnificent, but even better was the wine giveaway at the end (they do this with all of their tastings) where I was lucky enough to win my favorite, a bottle of Piper Heidsieck Rose Sauvage. With a ratio of 55% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier, and 15% Chardonnay, which are the traditional grapes used in Champagne, the sweetness and acidity were in perfect balance, with red fruits and strawberry undertones creating a tongue-tingling delight. Being the French rose freak that I am, this may have been my most divine experience with champagne so far.

French sparkling wines that do not come from Champagne are labeled “Cremant.” One in particular which I have been enjoying lately is Jaillance Rose Cremant de Bordeaux. This sparkling rose is light and lively and oh so delicious. A Bordeaux blend of 70% Cabernet and 30% Merlot, and priced around $13 to $15, this is a great inexpensive alternative to the fancy stuff. Besides the classic French versions of sparkling wine, there are others that use the same methods producing comparable results, often for a lot less money. The Italians, the Spanish, and the Californians are a few of these to note.
 
The best sparkling wines coming out of the United States, mainly from California or New York, are made using the Methode Champenoise. These wines are less expensive than Champagne yet are made in the classic style. One of my favorite California sparklings is Domaine Chandon by Moet Chandon, the French producer of White Star and Dom Perignon. This wine comes out of Napa and was the first French-owned sparkling wine venture in the US.  At $20 to $22 per bottle this possesses many of the characteristics of a great Champagne, complete with the citrusy nose, while being slightly yeasty and nutty with a caramel finish.
Italy makes a number of different styles of sparkling wine. My favorite, Prosecco, is fresh, bubbly and usually inexpensive. When I was in Italy the low alcohol and approachability of this wine made it a favorite morning, noon, and night. The Prosecco grapes come out of the Northern Veneto region. The Charmat method is used in this case in order to preserve the freshness and flavor of the grape. These wines are dry, with hints of almond and honey.

The Astoria Prosecco is a current favorite in my store. Made with 90% Prosecco and 10% Chardonnay, this wine is fresh, clean, and quite dry. At around 12 bucks, you really can’t go wrong.

If you prefer a sweeter style of bubbly, the Asti region in Piedmont produces the popular Asti Spumante and the Moscato d’ Asti wines. Made from the Moscato grape, these are sweet and fruity, with lower alcohol content. It is good to know that if the word Asti appears on the bottle, you are looking at a sweet style of wine. 

Another interesting and much less common sweet Italian sparkling is Brachetto d’Acqui. This wine, made from 100% Brachetto grapes, is unique in the fact that it is a red sparkling wine with the sweetness of an Asti. Rosa Regale, by Banfi, an Italian importer known for its incredible wine portfolio, creates a nice version. This bottle can be purchased for around $21 to $23 a bottle—if you can find one around.

Cava is the Spanish version of sparkling wine. Created using the Methode Champenoise, it consists of three grapes: Macabeo, Xarello, and Parellada. Even the highest quality Cavas are very affordable compared to French Champagne and California sparkling wines. You can tell a true Cava by a series of 4 stars printed on the base of the bottle. The greatest way to serve Cava is to stick it in the freezer before you serve it since it is best served very very cold.

The most common Cava is probably a sparkling wine you didn’t even know was a Cava. The Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut in the black bottle is a familiar sight in most wine shops. This high quality wine can be found as low as $8 to $10, the same price you would pay for a not-so-great California sparkling.

The topic of sparkling wine is a huge one to tackle, much bigger than my space in this column allows. There are entire books written on the subject, and with good reason since I have barely even touched on the subject. Most important, quality sparkling wine is not just for the rich and privileged. All of us, given the right information, can experience the tingle of those glorious bubbles on our tongues along with the giddy silliness that overpowers us while drinking a good glass of bubbly.
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