All About Food | August 14th, 2024
By Rick Gion
The recent fire at Mango’s Mexican and American Grill on Main Avenue in Fargo has left a void in the local food scene. But don’t fret, my friends. There are plenty of Mexican restaurants in the area to choose from. Counting the large restaurants and all the small taquerias, there are now close to 20. Adding food trucks into the mix, and it’s possibly over 25.
Even with the vast amounts of spicy eating options now in the area, those who live and work in the downtown Fargo area will be without their favorite Tex-Mex lunch spot. The damage suffered from the fire at Mango’s amounts to nearly a half million dollars. And because insurance checks and new equipment take a while to arrive, it will probably take three months or more for the restaurant to get back to normal.
Just to be upfront, this column will be part food review and part discussion. Either way, I’m hoping that it won’t cause too much heartburn.
If you really like Mango’s, I would highly suggest that you try the new Guadalajara Mexican Restaurante located at 1324 25th Ave. S. in Fargo, the site of the former Cajun Cafe.
For those of you who claim to be Fargo food historians, the new Guadalajara just off of South University obviously pays homage to the former Guadalajara that was off of 13th Ave., just east of Interstate 29. That restaurant was very popular in the late 1990s and early 2000s here.
I credit the former Guadalajara with shifting the palate of area diners toward decent Tex-Mex cuisine. The long-gone Juano’s on Broadway in downtown Fargo was another game changer. Both restaurants used plenty of cilantro, dried chiles and Mexican oregano. And before Juano’s, the only chile relleno served in Fargo-Moorhead was more like a cheesy scrambled egg patty with diced green chiles from a can. Aye! And fresh cilantro has never been a thing at Mexican Village or Paradiso. However, the stale chips are free at those places and the mediocre dinner is definitely extra.
Let’s get back to discussing the new Guadalajara. Just so you know, the same family that runs Mango’s also runs Guadalajara. Both menus are extremely similar. You’ll see many items that look familiar. They taste familiar too, and that’s not a bad thing.
I’ve recently dined twice at Guadalajara. Like Mango’s, the portions are large and the prices are ridiculously low. I will also point out that the service at both places is impeccable. Because prices are low and the speed of service is high, a thoughtful tip should be considered. It’s obvious that these folks work hard.
The enormous platter of enchiladas and a chile relleno I ordered during my first visit to Guadalajara was quite satisfying. I especially enjoyed the chile relleno. I took half of the platter items home. The cost was only $14.95. The lunch specials at this restaurant can be close to half this price, though. It’s one of the most affordable lunch spots in the area.
During my second visit, the molcajete proved to be quite good. It was served appropriately — blistering hot — and contained all the necessary contents. A molcajete is a volcanic rock vessel that is usually placed face down on a gas stove burner and cranked up to power a sauna. When served at the table, the contents are sizzling.
I especially enjoyed the caramelized pieces of steak that this high temperature provided. The price was even better. That Saturday night special cost me a measly $13.95. The meal could have fed three people.
I will say that the guacamole served with this meal could have been better. A few fresh avocado slices would solve this issue. No need for a stale mash.
The ownership of Acapulco and El Vaqueros in south Fargo is also related to those who run Guadalajara and Mango’s. Many menu items at these restaurants do taste similar. So does the watery salsa and super runny beans. However, I do appreciate that the chips are always fresh. I wish Mexican Village and Paradiso would take a lesson in how to best serve corn tortilla chips.
Side note: One of my main criticisms about Mexican cuisine in the Midwest is that most restaurants and taco trucks do not use fresh tortillas. I spent about four months in the Texas Hill Country in 2020. I got stuck down there during the Covid-19 pandemic. It wasn’t a bad place to be during that time, and we ate a lot of take out. The tortillas used down there are much different than up here. There, restaurants use fresh-made or locally produced corn and flour tortillas. It definitely makes for a more authentic experience. A slight increase in price because of the improvement wouldn’t be a vexing bother. I would pay extra for good tortillas.
Another side note: You may have noticed that Fargo-Moorhead is not the only area with a vast amount of Mexican options. It’s interesting to point out that the small lake community of Pelican Rapids, Minnesota, now hosts three Mexican restaurants. They’re all located just off of Highway 59. That’s three Mexican restaurants in a community of nearly 2,600 people.
Admittedly, I’m way too lazy to list the many other Mexican restaurants and taco spots in the area. I would recommend using Google as a search tool. The Fargo-Moorhead Convention and Visitors Bureau (found at fargomoorhead.org) also has a good list put together as a part of its dining guide. You can always use the search function in the Fargo-Moorhead Eats Facebook group too. That group has close to 40,000 followers these days. Posting from local food fans is frequent in that group.
Because the choices are abundant and vast, there’s a lot of information out there about local Mexican restaurants. All the more reason to do a taste-testing tour for a favorite. Buena suerte!
Rick Gion administers a Facebook food group called “Fargo-Moorhead Eats” that’s dedicated to the area’s great cooks and cuisine. The page now has nearly 40,000 followers. Check it out, join, and feel free to post items about your local culinary adventures and home cooking. And, while you’re at it, also join the Instagram and TikTok pages. Rick is also a featured guest on Prairie Public Radio’s “Main Street.” His weekly segment about food called “Prairie Plates” airs between 3 and 4 p.m. every Wednesday.
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