All About Food | March 24th, 2016
There is something special about neighborhoods that continuously offer surprises in the most unassuming places. From the outside it doesn’t seem to be much of a restaurant at all. The sign is printed on sheets of paper. BernBaum’s is tucked inside of the vintage and retro furniture store MIDMODMADHAUS at 115 Roberts Street N. Both look like they might have been plucked from a neighborhood in NYC.
The location is in a place, that coowner Brett Bernath calls NoRo (North Roberts), that is ripe for growth. Going inside is what brings the charm alive. There is a simple counter, a vintage stovetop and oven.It is through this simplicity that Brett and Chef Andrea Baumgardner create the feeling of kitchens that people grew up in: the home kitchen.
The base of BernBaum’s is built upon their bagels. Brett created the bagel recipe while he was working at The HoDo years ago, but they didn’t really become famous until he joined Andrea at The Green Market. Their philosophy is something you can taste. As Brett says, “there is an art to working with dough, like sculpting,” and that they “wouldn’t do it if we got frozen premade bagels.” It is important for Brett and Andrea to do things with care, because it creates tangible outcomes that one can taste.
BernBaum’s is more than just well made bagels.They also offer sandwiches, salads and soups, all made in house. As BernBaum’s name implies, a combination of both owners’ last names, the food is a tale of two heritages. Brett grew up eating Jewish and Israeli food cooked by his grandmother and mother. This influences become clear in the shop’s use of hummus, za’atar and lamb. Andrea’s influence shines in her use of classic Icelandic, Scandinavian and German ingredients.
Smoking and pickling connects the gap between the different pasts in a way that makes sense. Those used to be common cooking methods for the people of cold regions before modern amenities. The food isgreat way to reconnect with classic dishes from the past.BernBaum’s opening was quiet as both Brett and Andrea find the balance between what they enjoy from their heritages and what people in the city will like. Andrea foresees “grab and go” lunches to really take off. It is a great option for people in a hurry while looking for less processed options. If you aren’t pressed for time, the cute dining room, vintage plates and teacups all add to the charm.
BernBaum’s hours are 10am 5pm Wednesday through Saturday. The hours are initially short. Andrea opened The HoDo and The Green Market so she was used to long kitchen hours. She says it will be nice to find a creative, work and home balance. Let’s hope that they can find it so they can continue providing food that reminds us of our different pasts and our connected future.
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