​Getting in the groove

By Ben Rodgers

Located just south of Steven’s Point, Wis., in the central part of the state is Plover, home of O’so Brewing Company. Started by a husband and wife team, O’so is an up-and-coming brewery in the area. Having only been around for nine years, it recently took home a gold medal in the 2015 Great American Beer Festival.

This part of the state is a tiny hotbed of great breweries, O’so, Stevens Point Brewery and Central Waters Brewing Company are all a stone’s throw from each other. But I picked O’so for this review based on name alone.

Infectious Groove is the first sour brew available year around in Wisconsin. It’s also now officially Spring, which means musical festivals are drawing closer.

When it comes to bands that possess the ability to groove, Gov’t Mule is close to the top of my list. “Stoned Side of the Mule, Vol. 2” was a Record Store Day exclusive release in 2015 and contains six live songs, all Rolling Stones’ covers.

Warren Haynes, Mule’s front man, has made a name for himself by playing lead guitar for the Allman Brothers and with The Derek Trucks Band, to name a few. I met him in a parking lot after a show at a minor league baseball stadium about 15 years ago. Since then Haynes has gone to play his unique brand of blues guitar across the globe, including a stop at the Whitehouse.

It’s a daring move to try and hold a candle against Keith Richards and play songs that are engrained into the consciousness of most music fans. It’s also daring to have a wide release of a sour beer in a state where it’s anything but the norm.

Infectious Groove comes on light, crisp and tart with a hint of sour, nothing that would overpower the taste buds. Mule starts off with a classic, “Wild Horses.” It’s a well-known song, but while Mule’s version is a pretty standard cover, the beer is anything but standard.

Now here comes “B*tch” and right away it’s a drinking man’s song, much like the vast majority of the Stones’ catalog. But with each sip I initially expect something closer to the shandy beers that flood the market around this time of the year, but it comes on tart and ends clean and sour, not sweet.

I snatched up this record as soon as I saw it because there was a cover of my favorite Stones’ song “Slave.” The horns on this track might actually be better than those from “Tattoo You.” I am again reminded why Gov’t Mule is one of the best jam bands around, Haynes is coloring in the lines with his solos, but just barely.

The B Side opens with “Play with Fire,” which is almost like what I’m doing with the Infectious Groove. It’s not overly strong at 4.8 ABV, but the flavor is a kick in the teeth of every shandy out there. Hops are almost non-existent with an IBU of 2. It’s unlike anything I’ve had before.

Moving things along with another vintage Stones’ song, Mule rips into “Can’t You Hear Me Knocking,” hard and fast. It’s a big uplift from the slow song before. More blaring horns, more shocking beer. Other than a warm sunny day, it’s hard to pair this beer with anything. But Mule is starting to find the groove on this track, and nearly done with my pint, the two seem to be pairing just fine.

Successful musicians all know the key is to leave people wanting more. Ending this album with “Brown Sugar,” does the trick. These six songs have flown by in a frenzy. Even though it’s a challenge to taste anything other than the initial tart blast this beer offers, it’s surprisingly drinkable, once you get accustomed to the taste. Gov’t Mule may not be for everyone, but this album definitely is. Next time to sun is shining and the grill is flaming, I’d recommend either of these to go along with it.

YOU SHOULD KNOW

Infectious Groove (sour blonde ale)

O’so Brewing Company, Plover Wis., pop 12,213

Available year round in Wisconsin and the Chicagoland area