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​Whiskey to warm your winter

Beer Snob | November 16th, 2016

By Chris Larson cjlarson@gmail.com

In the weeks to come, I invite you to take a journey around the world of whiskies with me. Along this journey I’ll introduce you to some great whisk(e)y from all corners of the Earth, including Ireland, Scotland, Japan, and beginning right here in the States with one of our prized American heritage spirits: bourbon.

This week, and in the weeks to follow, I will choose one whiskey I am familiar with and one I have little to no experience with and share my impressions of each dram with my readers. From time to time, I may get the opportunity to sit down with a friend because these experiences with a great spirit are really best as shared experiences.

Bourbon is a barrel-aged spirit made primarily of corn and whose name is derived from counties named for the French royal house of Bourbon. Whether the name attached to whiskey originated around Bourbon County in Kentucky or was inspired by the famous New Orleans street has always been a matter of contention.

In May of 1964, federal regulations recognized bourbon as a unique spirit and laws governing its ingredients and production were passed. 51% of the grains used to make “straight bourbon” must be corn, it must be potted in new charred white american oak barrels and aged for a minimum of two years and finally, the legal minimum proof of final product must be at least 60 proof. Only limestone filtered spring water may be used to lower the proof before bottling.

Limestone filtration, corn base, and especially the aging in charred oak are the three main things about bourbon that give it unique qualities.

For election night, I was quite particular in my decision to enjoy a dram of bourbon and from the moment I cast my vote on lunch break, the barely open bottle of Jefferson’s Reserve at home was calling my name. I had only had one dram from this bottle and it was long enough ago that I had forgotten its flavors.

The flagship product in Jefferson’s line of bourbons and ryes, it is considered the elder statesman of the brand. Containing four different recipes of ages ranging from 8 to 12 years, this whiskey is much more complex and sophisticated than their very approachable Jefferson’s bourbon. Bottled at 45.1% ABV, I poured bottle number 7040 from batch number 7041.

Amber in color with perhaps a hint of red, the nose is quite hot but does contain oaky notes and spice including cinnamon behind the burn. At first taste, the heat does a lot to bury flavors but when I dilute by letting it rest with a single large cube, an extremely complex wash of flavors begins. Buttery vanilla, caramel, earthy barrel notes of dark fruit are overcome with peppery spice and cinnamon in the mid palate and the finish is smooth with a warmth that washes over the tongue and then starts to build back from deep within the belly. The complex notes would make this an excellent whiskey for cocktails or sipping (though it is a bit pricey at $60 a bottle) and the beautiful presentation on this uniquely shaped bottle make it a great gift for any whiskey collector.

Considered the original single barrel bourbon, Blanton’s Single Barrel comes from the Buffalo Trace distillery which is known as the most awarded distillery in the United States. Once designated for ambassadors, dignitaries and Colonel Blanton’s family, this beautifully crafted whiskey is now available around the world and known for exceptional smoothness while still delivering character and nuance.

Packaged in an ornate bottle with a collectible racehorse stopper, it is a nearly essential focal point of most bourbon bars. This particular tasting came from bottle 281 of a dump of barrel number 402 from rickrack number 7, dumped on 4-13-16 and presented at 93 proof.

Always aged for a standard of 8 years in the middle of Warehouse H, the nose consistently presents citrus, vanilla and a hint of spice. As to be expected, this dram delivered a burst of caramel at the front before the nose flavors of citrus and vanilla take over. The spice notes imparted from rye grains are present throughout the entire tasting, from nose to finish and this dram always finishes smooth.

Gaining in popularity, which is leading to it being more difficult to find, and slowly rising in price, this is still an excellent bourbon for my money though I do tend to savor each bottle by only pouring a dram for special occasions. Ranging from $60-70 per bottle, the price isn’t quite in serious collector territory, though its limited availability would probably prevent me from using it in a cocktail.

Some aficionado’s consider this bourbon not quite nuanced enough and even too smooth to take seriously but those seeking an incredibly smooth, slightly nuanced pour that delivers a masterful blend of a few key flavors will find a glass of Blanton’s exceptional both neat or on ice.

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