​A tale of two cities: food and art in Columbus and Dublin, Ohio

By Alicia Underlee Nelson

alicia.underlee.nelson@gmail.com

I am stretched out on the window seat in my hotel room, watching a gentle rain paint the sidewalks of downtown Columbus. “Tusk” by Fleetwood Mac spins on the turntable I borrowed from the front desk at The Junto, an almost impossibly well-stocked boutique hotel along the banks of the Scioto River. Its gracious confines contain two restaurants (wood-hearth Little West Tavern and the rooftop Brass Eye), a coffee shop, walk-up poutine window (!) and a library (be still, my book-loving heart). The property also loans out bikes, kayaks and paddle boards so guests can explore the river and The Scioto Mile, a scenic network of pedestrian walkways, boulevards and green spaces visible from my current perch.

My whole body is relaxed after a soothing sound bath at Paloma, a holistic spa that also offers aura readings, meditation and massages. It provided a welcome moment of stillness after a day in motion. I’ve been busy photographing street art, sampling beers from Seventh Son Brewing and Antiques on High and snacking my way through Mexican, Vietnamese and Somali dishes from eateries I first tried during my time in Dublin, a walkable suburb that skillfully blends the historic and the brand-new.

The rain patters against the window as Stevie Nicks murmurs that she’s always been a storm. I may never leave this spot. But if I do, the Columbus metro’s world-class restaurants and breweries, accessible outdoor activities, historic neighborhoods and solid art and shopping options will keep me coming back.

Columbus, Ohio’s capital and the state’s largest city, is known for being the home of Ohio State University, COSI (a hands-on science museum that engages all ages) and the Franklin Park Conservatory and Botanical Gardens, which showcases several colorful sculptures by glass artist Dale Chihuly. But you’ll want to dive deep into its neighborhoods to tap into the energy that powers the city.

Wander the historic streets of German Village, stopping for pastries at Pistacia Vera, handmade soap, candles and scent from Tiki Botanicals and old-school German food at Schmidt’s Sausage Haus, where the staff rock lederhosen and serve cream puffs the size of your head. The Book Loft of German Village, a labyrinthine shop so maze-like, staffers provide maps at the door, is a must-see for any bibliophile. The entire neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

The wonderful Columbus Museum of Arts showcases modern art from the United States and Europe. But neighborhoods like the Franklinton Arts District and Short North Arts District provide a more immersive experience into the city’s creativity. The former is scrappier, gritter, with a DIY vibe that comes alive during Franklinton Fridays when the galleries and art studios welcome visitors and the Land-Grant Brewing Company beer garden is buzzing.

The latter bursts with galleries, colorful street art (like an 11-story mural on The Graduate Hotel) and a plethora of artfully curated shopping experiences. Browse the shelves at Prologue Bookshop, admire the beautifully crafted clothing and accessories at Samson’s Men’s Emporium.) The fantastic Flower Child Vintage, one of my favorite vintage shops in the Midwest, is absolutely worth the short drive. (Sadly, my carry-on luggage limited my shopping spree to a Dior scarf.)

If you’re craving a smaller city experience, try Dublin. This suburban community of just under 49,000 souls blends a quaint downtown that’s featured on the National Historic Register, pretty parks and hidden waterfalls with a vibrant new neighborhood called Bridge Park that is still growing and evolving.

These two halves of Dublin are connected by The Dublin Link, the longest single tower, S-shaped suspension bridge on the planet. This sculptural pedestrian bridge feels like its own ecosystem. Kids splash in the water feature. Adults rest in deck chairs. In the winter, the seating area transforms into an ice skating rink. In warmer weather, visitors and locals jog, stroll and bike along the riverfront trails and across the bridge itself, bound for shops and restaurants on either side.

The Dublin Ohio Waterfall Tour whisks visitors to several pretty water features, including some just a short walk from the bridge’s west side. Additional tours invite visitors to hunt for historic landmarks, art in public places and even tiny fairy doors tucked inside local businesses. (A tip: Ask any child you meet. They’re pros.) Many stops are accessible on foot, while some require a short drive. (Rideshares are available.)

Dublin boasts over 100 restaurants and eateries. Find several at North Market Bridge Park, a food hall that offers plenty of options and few shops, too. (You can also visit the original location in Columbus.) Savory pho from Lan Viet and stellar sambusas and chicken suqaar at Hoyo’s Kitchen are standouts. (Fun fact: Columbus boasts the second largest Somali population in the U.S, just behind Minneapolis.)

I honestly still think about these dishes…and every other meal I had in Dublin. The simple bagel sandwich at Frank & Carl’s was my go-to breakfast, while the fruit-studded dessert I ordered with the house-made limoncello at Coast Wine House were so pretty, people on the patio stopped talking and openly stared as the server slid it across the table.

Speaking of sweets, I liked my very first chocolate-dipped peanut butter buckeye candy at Winans Coffee & Chocolate so much that I tried them in a cone at Johnson’s Real Ice Cream as well. (It seemed the only responsible thing to do while in the Buckeye State.) Jeni’s Ice Creams also offers a buckeye flavor, but I was busy sampling half the menu at that point. (It’s hard work, but somebody’s got to do it.)

Combining tacos and people-watching on the sidewalk patio at Local Cantina is a blast, especially later in the evening. To see and be seen, try the rooftop patio at Mezzo or stroll up to The Roosevelt Room, a dark and romantic cocktail bar. For a truly special meal, reserve a table at Valentina’s, an Italian concept from Columbus restaurateur Cameron Mitchell. Literally every single dish that I put into my mouth was stellar. The stracciatella topped with pistachios and chili apricot jam lives rent free in mind, possibly forever.

There’s something delicious around every corner in Dublin and Columbus. The art scene is eclectic, the neighborhoods are intriguing and the atmosphere is welcoming to all. Ohio’s largest metropolitan area is anything but ordinary. I can’t wait to go back.

Alicia Underlee Nelson is a freelance writer and photographer based in West Fargo. Her work has appeared in Thomson Reuters, Lonely Planet, Food Network, Delta Sky Magazine, AAA Living, Midwest Living, Beer Advocate, trivago Magazine, Matador Network, craftbeer.com, and numerous other publications.

She is the author of “100 Things to Do in Fargo Before You Die” and “North Dakota Beer: A Heady History.” Alicia also co-authored “Midwest Road Trip Adventures” and “Midwest State Park Adventures” with colleagues. She appears on a regular travel segment on Prairie Public Radio and has contributed to KFGO-AM and Minnesota Public Radio. Follow her adventures in the Midwest and around the world at prairiestylefile.com.

Caption: Photo Courtesy of ISO Images