All About Food | November 20th, 2024
By Rick Gion
Photo by Rick Gion
To say the least, this election season was a doozy. Anxiety was high for many on both sides of the political aisle. To calm down and settle the nerves, a comforting meal is definitely in order. That’s why this month’s column will focus on a menu of classic comfort food destinations.
Since Fargo-Moorhead is considered peak Midwest by many, it’s only fitting that the area boasts some of the very best in comfort food offerings. Comfort food criteria for this column includes breakfast items, soups, and other classic upper Midwest fare. I say upper Midwest, because soups such as knoephla are not readily available in other Midwestern states such as Iowa. As is known by many, this soup hits the right way in satisfying the needs of Minn-Dak diners.
Other comfort food staples of note include the honest hot beef sandwich. This dish definitely serves to satisfy. As comfort food is concerned, it is the way. Other tasty comfort food dishes include items such as hot turkey sandwiches, meatloaf and Swedish meatballs. Needed accouterments for these tasty treats include homemade mashed potatoes and gravy. I also enjoy a large dab of cranberry or lingonberry sauce.
So, which local restaurants serve up some of the best versions of these classic dishes? Let’s travel around the metro area for a comfort food tour. Geographically, this column will start north, move south and then travel west to east.
For those who already know, The Shack on Broadway is an industry leader in comfort food. It’s a homey establishment on the far north side of Fargo. The breakfast items at this restaurant consistently and deservingly win ‘best of’ media awards. The omelets at The Shack are expertly cooked and stuffed with goodies. Hash browns are cooked the right way — served crispy. The caramel rolls and pie definitely hit that sweet tooth. Please don’t sleep on the other menu items at The Shack. The soups and sandwiches are quite good. Dinner items also serve to satisfy. To calm your nerves, a visit to The Shack is in order.
Moving south a bit, into downtown Fargo, is The Sons of Norway Kringen Lodge. It’s a comfort food go-to, especially on days when the Swedish meatballs are rolling. Heck, even the liver and onions platter is good there. For those interested, liver and onions are often served on Fridays. Surprisingly, the vegetarians in my life also enjoy the Sons of Norway for grilled cheese sandwiches and tomato soup. With Patty at the helm of soup-making lately, consistency has been solid. From chili to knoephla, it’s been a good selection. Also, the decor at this establishment has true 1970s vibes. The vintage wallpaper radiates. It’s a throw-back in time. The Sons of Norway serves up a good Sunday brunch every once and a while too. It’s a good option if you enjoy carbs.
An additional recommended breakfast spot is the Old Broadway in downtown Fargo. Breakfast is served there from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., Monday through Saturday. The menu includes French toast, omelets, scrambles and skillets. There’s also a $7.99 daily breakfast special, which includes two eggs, choice of meat and choice of toast. If you’re fortunate, you’ll get to chat with Warren and get a dose of his witty humor.
Randy’s University Diner and Randy’s Diner, Too are both vital to the local comfort food economy. These restaurants consistently serve up satisfying breakfasts, lunches and dinners. The Too version has much more of a diner vibe than the restaurant on south University. However, there is no downside to patronizing the south University location. When visiting either or both, be sure to get a piece of delicious coffee cake. Knoephla soup is served on Wednesdays.
Deaner’s Diner in West Fargo is a well-known comfort food establishment and has unique marketing. Sometimes the social media posts from Deaner’s don’t quite land. They can be odd and sometimes just plain bizarre. However, the food is quite satisfying. The breakfast portions come heavy duty. The hot turkey sandwiches and knoephla soup are other favorites. There is always a lot of pie available as well. Deaner’s does not disappoint in the comfort food department. It’s highly recommended.
On the other side of the Red River, the Moorhead Fryn’ Pan serves classic homestyle flare. I live much closer to the downtown Fargo location, but the Moorhead Pan satisfies what I seek. It has much more of that traditional Fryn’ Pan-type vibe. It’s located right off of Highway 10. Be sure to check out the $3.99 breakfast special at both locations. Breakfast at that price cannot be beat. I’m also a big fan of the lunchtime soup and salad bar.
On my most-missed comfort food restaurant list is BernBaum’s. The former Scandanavian-Jewish deli was a go-to. The egg bake was like a pillow of comfort and the matzo ball soup satisfied the soul. I could take a long nap on that egg bake if I didn’t eat it first. I hope something fitting will move into the empty location soon.
To calm the post-election nerves, a comfort food tour is highly recommended. It may not solve all anxiety, but it may give some relief. Politics is a tough business these days. Eating away worries is a much more enjoyable venture.
Rick Gion administers a Facebook food group called “Fargo-Moorhead Eats” that’s dedicated to the area’s great cooks and cuisine. Check it out, join, and feel free to post items about your local culinary adventures and home cooking. And, while you’re at it, also join the Instagram and TikTok pages. Rick is also a featured guest on Prairie Public Radio’s “Main Street.” His weekly segment about food called “Prairie Plates” airs between 3 and 4 p.m. every Wednesday.
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