​Whiskey around the world : Japan

Since 1924, Japanese spirit, wine, and beer giant Suntory has been making whiskey but it wasn’t until 2015 that the category of Japanese whiskey began to gain serious traction in the United States.

This was the year that Jim Murray named one of Suntory’s products, Yamazaki Sherry Cask as the #1 Whiskey of the World in a list that for the shocking first time did not feature a single whiskey from Scotland in its top five. Unfortunately, that particular whiskey was such extremely limited production that the attention almost immediately consumed all the supply but it did result in the rest of Suntory’s portfolio making its way to shelves across the country.

Typically, the Japanese produce their whiskey in much the same way Scotch is made, with a focus on single malt whiskey that is imparted with varying amounts of smoke and peat and, much like the rest of the whiskey producers around the world, have turned to finishing their products in a wide variety of casks to impart many different flavors and characteristics to the whiskeys they offer the world.

Just like the whiskey makers from Scotland, the Japanese present whiskey as either single malt or blended, and for this tasting I sampled one of each, beginning with their newer, blended version from the Hibiki known as “Japanese Harmony.”

Inspired by the 24 different seasons in Japan and the harmony that exists between the Japanese and nature, “Harmony” is a blend of at least 10 different malt and grain whiskeys that are matured in a variety of casks and expertly married together by their third-generation master blender who is a direct descendant of the distillery founder, Shingo Torii.

The nose gives off clean but strong aromas of rosemary, mature oak, sandalwood, touches of peat and slight smoke and some hints of rose petals or perfume flowers, but the mouth is a delicate blend of caramel, vanilla, honey and a bit of candied orange. The finish is long and balanced with the light accents of smoke and peat coming back at the end but dulled by an oaky finish that is reminiscent of American oak but most certainly different. This must be the influence of special Japanese oak known as Mizunara.

Incredibly smooth and masterfully blended to include plenty of character and nuance, this whiskey is a great example of how and why the Japanese have come to the forefront with their whiskeys. Perfect for sipping with a large ice ball (the way the Japanese would recommend) I would love to see what a masterful mixologist could do to highlight different flavors. But at $100 a bottle retail, I would probably not be inclined to experiment with it myself.

Also from Suntory distilleries is The Hakushu 12-year single malt. To experience this whiskey, I made a trip down to one of the very few spots in town that shelves Japanese whiskey, The Toasted Frog, where I sat down with bar manager and mixologist James Hein for a tasting. The first nosing of The Hakushu 12 year presents some pretty hot esters before revealing smoke, delicate peat, caramel and honeycomb. The first taste was more smoke, vanilla, and big middle of caramel before the peat and a touch of smoke come back on the finish. When diluted, we both experienced bursts of lemon and pear and a mellowing of the smoke and peat.

Both of us found this whiskey to be a delightful mix of smoke, peat, and wood that is tempered well by citrus, pear, and caramel sweetness. It’s incredibly approachable yet has enough character to interest those used to bolder Scotch whiskey.

Retail stores that carry it will have it priced at around $100 but The Toasted Frog pours the Hakushu 12 for $15 per dram and also still has the Hibiki 12 year available, which is currently being phased out of production but quite similar to the “Harmony” previously mentioned. They also feature a Happy Hour from 4-5:30 with $2 off taps and glasses of wine, and nightly drink features.

Though most American drinkers are woefully unaware of the superior quality of Japanese whiskey, a collector of fine whiskey would be more than excited to find a bottle of either of these great spirits under the tree this holiday season. There is also a rumor that the local market might be seeing some of the now-legendary Yamazaki whiskey, so keep an eye out at your favorite liquor stores or contact them to ask to be put on a waiting list, because there probably won’t be much to be had.