Beer Snob | November 22nd, 2016
By Chris Larson
cjlarson75@gmail.com
With a rich history of distillation dating back to the late 15th century, Scotch whisky has made its way around the world to the point that it is nearly impossible to find a single establishment that doesn’t have at least one single malt or one blended Scotch whisky on hand.
Other than a minimum of three years aging in a barrel, there are few rules that govern its production; but the variety of grains, where those grains were grown, and types of barrels used to “finish” the whisky before bottling, all influence the product in so many ways that Scotch whisky can widely vary in flavor from distillery to distillery and even within each distiller’s own line of products.
That being said, scotch is generally broken down into two basic types: single malt, or single grain. Single malt is produced only from water and malted barley at one distillery in pot stills while single grain is distilled at a single distillery but can include other whole grains or unmalted cereal grains. Single malt Scotch whisky is a rapidly growing segment of the beverage market and I focused on two completely different single malts that delivered totally different experiences when tasted.
This week I had the pleasure of experiencing a scotch that was not only new to me but relatively new to the market. Another release that joins the wave of “NAS” (no age statement) whisky, Laphroaig Select is also a multi-barrel finish offering from the legendary distillery.
Immediately upon pouring a dram, before I even dipped my nose into the glass, the smoke and medicinal aromas flooded my olfactory organs. Novocaine, thick smoke and hints of banana, pear, and a bit of honey were found when I nosed the glass. The first neat sip revealed burnt embers and deep smoke that was gently soothed by soft sweet banana, a touch of honey and coconut. When I dropped water in, it opened some more fruit flavors, soft pear, more sweet honey and a bit of vanilla that helped it finish long, dry, and smooth.
Admittedly, I am relatively new to Scotch whisky but my profession has allowed me opportunities to taste a couple hundred different ones in the last few years, and I have discovered that I am not that big of a fan of the deep smoke, heavy peat, and strong medicinal flavors Laphroaig has become well known for.
This whisky, finished in several different types of casks but most notably Pedro Ximenez and Oloroso Sherry casks, delivers a much less aggressive flavor than the others from Laphroaig’s distillery, and I would recommend it as an entry point for those looking to ease themselves into smoky, peaty, medicinal scotch. Retail stores with extensive scotch selections should have this available for $55-60.
During my last visit to Sazerac Alley, I noticed they had a respectable selection of Scotch whisky, so I decided to sit down with Jason Laub at Sazerac and share the experience of a glass of Balvenie 14-year Carribean Cask.
Jason hadn’t tasted this scotch in over a year and was eager to refresh his memory, but I am quite familiar with this scotch and often recommend it to customers searching for a smooth, fruity, sweet scotch that isn’t loaded with smoke and peat. Despite my familiarity with it, I am always more than happy to experience a scotch of this quality and was looking forward to really digging in this time.
The nose is full of toffee, pear, apple, and has hints of vanilla and a touch of caribbean spices. The first sip is a lot of the same with the toffee more subdued and the influence of rum sugars throughout. The apple turns to more of a tropical fruit flavor in the middle and fresh-cut oak sawdust is present near the finish, before more toffee, rum sugar, and pear throughout a long smooth finish that leaves you feeling warm and cozy.
It’s funny how tasting a whiskey with someone who has a good palate will help you find things in the dram. Jason grabbed onto the rum sugars more than I did at first and I was initially overwhelmed by toffee. As soon as the other noted the presence, our taste buds came alive at the suggestion. We both agreed this scotch is rich, smooth, and sweet in a way that was pleasantly surprising.
Worth experiencing alone or with a friend, this has become a Scotch that is receiving a lot more attention, and it’s great to see places like Sazerac Alley stocking it on their shelves. Retail stores with a respectable Scotch selection should have it available for $80-90.
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